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Christian Stangl

Carstensz Pyramide

4884m

The fifth summit of my "Seven summit speed" project is done! I did not even need a full hour to climb through the 780m north face and with that I hold the speed record on that mountain.

On sight speed climb April 8th 2007. I started 7 am on the dot. The first lengths were dead easy. Annoying were only the fixed ropes which were in no way necessary. The rock was excellent. My climbing – difficulty II – III was only limited by my heart and lung volume. I could give it all on approx 4.500 m. In the middle part of the face I straightened the original route and was at times climbing more directly. Partly the difficulty rose to IV but I still had my slicks on my belt. The rock was of a rarely seen perfection and the climbing sheer pleasure.

A short chimney led me to the ridge. The first check on my watch: 29 MINUTES! I could not believe it! Was it possible to summit the Carstensz Pyramid in less than one hour. I accelerated and jogged along the ridge.

Four ropes were supposed to be the bridge over the big gap on the ridge. I did not hesitate, hung me onto a karabiner into the ropes and crossed over. Where are the difficult parts? Where is that 5.8 passage? 45 minutes passed. Some passages around III but nothing more. On the easy parts I jogged. Instinctively I found the right trail. Coming South I rushed up the walk able terrain. Some traces, here and there an old rope. I reached the tower….the SUMMIT! No doubt: ahead of me banners, pennants and a bronze plate. A check on the watch confirmed: 07:49h the pyramid was doable under 1 hour!

Extra: On 27/01/2013 I climbed Mt. Kocsiuszko, highest peak of Australia to meet the criteria of "Bass" Second Seven Summits list.

  • 01_Carstensz Pyramid 8-April 2007
  • After summiting Carstensz
  • Carstensz Pyramide northface 780m
  • During the 6 days approach from Beoga
  • Summit of Carstensz Pyramid
  • Summit ridge of carstensz in the mist
  • c.stangl_summit_mt._kosciuszko

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