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Christian Stangl

Dykh Tau гора Дых тау

5.224m – summit where are you?

Little is known about Dykh Tau. Apart from being damn dangerous along the southern route, where themountain was climbed first. However, also the ascend route via the western route was a tough job.

Cameraman Alois Zauner who was supposed to film parts of the speed ascent got a pretty big scare due to an enormous rock slide in the Russian Bivouac. The further ascent was very dangerous and I also thought about turning back more than once. It seems that a winter ascent would be the better solution on this mountain. The logical rout through the ice channel was endangered by hanging glaciers that I was bound to find an alternative solution. I chose a route through very crumbly rocks and took ropes, pitons and ice screws with me just to be on the save side. Filming became a minor matter, I preferred a rapid solo ascent for security reasons. Only at about 5.000m can you see the long summit pyramid and it looked as if the highest point now was the snowy cone at the very back. The ridge was blank ice and rocky passages. All of it very steep and exposed. Snow cornices on both sides asked for a very defensive climbing style. Finally! There is the last snowy cone! However that one just clears the view for the real summit.

After another two minutes I arrive at the highest point. For an automatic release picture was not enough space on the pointy summit hence I took a portrait picture with the Elbrus in the background. During the descent I took another picture from the hidden summit, standing on the snowy cone from which I thought it was the highest point.

  • Dykh Tau summit_Elbrus in the background
  • Summit Pinacle of Dykh Tau
  • Summit Pyramide of Dykh Tau
  • North ridge on Dykh Tau
  • Dykh Tau_Summit still cannot be seen from here
  • Khostan Tau
  • Russian Biwak on Dykh Tau
  • c.schmidt_s.kren_c.stangl_on_summit_of_dufourspitze_28.3.2012_2nd_highest_peak_of__the_alps

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