K2_SUMMIT_July 31st 2012
8.611m – Just dangerous!
The Chogori (= the big one) seemed to be the key not only for the "TRIPLE SEVEN SUMMITS" project but also for the 14x8.000er. Finally, after four unsuccessful summers in the Karakorum I summited on July 31st 2012!
2008: Only 11 days after I reached base camp I tried my first summit push in perfect conditions. However, just above the shoulder, at the entrance of the bottleneck the catastrophe happened: an ice avalanche got loose and killed 11climbers. Shocked from this tragic event I returned home.
2009: I already passed the famous bottleneck with a handful of climbers of different nationalities and reached the end of the traverse on 8.300m. The snow reached up to our hips. We were about a dozen climbers but we couldn’t make it to the summit.
2010: Abruzzi Route: The first attempt that summer already ended below the shoulder. A forecasted window of good weather did not happen. Despite heavy rockfall I started a last attempt in the beginning of August. The following false news of my summiting K2 went around the world. There is one thing I never understood until then: despite your best efforts and fitness you can not conquer such a mountain. If you don’t have the necessary luck: forget it! During the "seven summits speed" project I acting according the: I came – saw – and won principle. And suddenly I can not even climb K2 in the normal style in my 3rd attempt.
2011: We were 10 climbers on the southern side, everybody on the Cesen route. We fixed August 6th as the ideal day; best weather is forecasted. It came as it apparently had to come: in camp 4, on the shoulder, the wind suddenly turned and grew stronger. The summit partly disappeared in the clouds. Nobody had the courage to ascend further.
2012 - SUMMIT ! Finally, after my fifth summer in Karakoram I topped out at July 31st at arround 16:30h in the afternoon after a 18hours summit push directly from camp 3 at the Abruzzi route without using bottled oxygen.